Friday, May 11, 2012

Missed Already

My last message from Paris... This is a bittersweet moment. I always thought that after spending a semester abroad, I would turn into this completely self-realized person who knew what she wanted to do with her life and who felt up to any challenge. Far from it, I have realized that I know nothing, and I only have a million questions left to ask myself about my life and what I am going to do after college. The important thing is that I want France to be part of my story.

Even if I only get to be here for small stints in the future, I realize now that my life is permanently entwined with Paris. I just want to make it count when I go home. There's nothing like this odd city, and at times, it's easy to write it off as too much of a world-wide myth center. It's like people just want to come here for the sites and the monuments, for the Mona Lisa and the Eiffel Tower. Paris, as I have lived it, is about so much more than those things.

Paris for me will always hold a special place in my heart because of the people who are here. Granted, not all of them are special. You meet some odd characters on the metro, and I am glad to see those adventures far behind me. But you also meet so many people with different walks of life. Part of what makes the French culture so special is how the world is something to study. I never want to forget the desire I have to explore the world like one great canvas upon which each culture has painted its heritage to be shared.

For me, I am already missing my corner of Paris, though I know that I'm always going to carry it with me.

Friday, May 4, 2012

Oh, the things I will miss!

There are only a few days left of my Paris adventures, a week to be precise. I just feel like this whole thing is a whirlwind of experiences I can't begin to share with all of you like I want to! So here's what I'm going to do. This next week is going to be dedicated to things I will miss about being in Paris. I've shared enough about tips and travel, etc. I just want to share the things that make my time here unique to me. Keep in mind that these things are also in no particular order.

The bells of Notre Dame! I wish I could take that cathedral with me everywhere, and not just a pocket-sized one! I just want to be able to look out of my window and see it for the rest of my life. Does this mean I'm coming back to Paris to live? Who really knows? One thing is for sure, they might throw me out of the city for not liking wine. For real, I can't handle any of it.

The Seine. I just love this beautiful river. It's big and probably smells terrible (caution: don't get too close), but it's the most oddly romantic body of water I've ever been around. Even the ocean doesn't seem to have the same kind of mystique for me... Perhaps it's just because of the view I have of the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame and the Sainte Chapelle. That probably helps.

Walking. It's funny, but you don't really get to walk around in the US like you do in Paris. If you're walking, you are walking in a park or on a side walk in a neighborhood. If you live in NYC, you might have the closest parallel with the kind of walking I'm talking about. I hope that I can find a place to live where walking is not only common but a wonderful way to experience the city. I just wish that I'd done more of it sooner - despite the unnaturally cold weather.

Stay tuned for more. Boy, I'm really missing Paris now just as much as I miss home. It's best for me to do this while I'm still here, though. I don't know what odd things I'll be experiencing on re-entry!

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Spring Break

So here I am back in Paris with only 2 weeks left. Actually, with just under 2 weeks left! I can hardly believe it's that time already, mostly since I just returned from a lovely break. I split my time between London and Madrid, and let me tell you, I've never known traveling to be so prone to ups and downs as this trip was! Here are a few things I'd like to share with those of you who are planning travelling around Europe while you're here:

1. Cost
You may find yourself in a pinch for money. No problem! There are loads of cheap ways to see everything you want to see. You just have to find all the right ways to cut costs without suffering from them. One good way to do that is to find reasonable housing. If possible, stay with people you know. That may mean your cousin's ex-fiance, but I hope it doesn't! If you can't find someone you're related to, the next best thing is to take recommendations from people who have been to where you are going. They are great resources for you when beginning your search for bargains.

Next option, internet and guide books. It's been my experience that some websites will tell you helpful information, while others only give you what's convenient to share. Like, "Breakfast included," sometimes means you only get it certain days of the week and at certain hours, and it's not on-site. You should be thorough in your research, and if you don't mind surprises, go ahead and gamble. On the other hand, guide books will give you a lot of good information about everything you will want to do, whether it's sight-seeing or finding a hotel/hostel.

2. Travel
When traveling, you should know your own habits. Since I am not a good traveler, as some put it, I like to travel on airplanes rather than in cars for long stretches of travel. But since I also love a good bargain, on my trip to London I was happy to save some change to spend while actually in the city (and you need it; nothing's cheap in London!). Unfortunately, that meant taking a bus. After arriving late and then spending an extra 2 hours in customs, the out-bound trip seemed like a nightmare. When returning from London, the whole trip took no longer than expected and was smooth-sailing the whole 5 hours. Still, compare that to flying, and I think you might just be better off taking the plane.

3. Arrival
Once you get to town, the sky's the limit. Or really, your budget. You can manage to see a lot even over the span of a long weekend. I would strongly recommend the guides put out by Lonely Planet. Using the London guide not only helped me to get a sense of the geography of the city, with numerous regional and city maps, but it also helped me to prioritize my visit with suggested day trips and walking tours. If you don't want to pay much, you can easily flip through and get a feel for what's cheap. You can also find out the good places to go for food!

4. Souvenirs
If you want souvenirs that will mean something, don't just go to the souvenir shops. Talk to the locals, read the guide books, and most importantly, walk around! It's okay to be lost, just preferably don't be lost at night. Things get strange quickly for visitors when it's dark. But you can easily get to know people at shops and on the public transportation, especially if you speak the local language. Be sure and be sensitive to culture, too. Sometimes people don't like tourists meddling in their affairs.

Thursday, April 12, 2012

Paris When It Doesn't Sizzle

So living in Paris seems like a dream, right? Then you do it and you feel like you're living a dream, right? Well, one of the reasons it feels like you're living a dream is that crazy things happen all the time that just shouldn't be normal. Here's just a few thoughts to throw out.

Weekend stroll
Last Saturday I took a lovely stroll through Paris. As soon as I got off the metro, there was a jazz brass group playing and a crowd of happy tourists cheering them on. Not 15 feet away, I ran into a man playing La Vie en Rose on his accordion. "This is Paris," I thought. The walk continued on for a while, including a few random turns that led me right back to the main boulevard and eventually to the Musee d'Orsay. I've been trying to get there this whole trip, but the line, can you believe it, was a crowd that stretched across the whole plaza. Then I walked along the Seine (thinking of Gene Kelley dancing to Gershwin in An American in Paris), then on to Place Dauphine and Pont Neuf. And what happened next? The rain started to fall. There's something you can't live without in Paris: cold rain and sunshine.

Easter at Notre Dame
Though I am not Catholic, I attended mass at the breath-taking Notre Dame Cathedral for Easter Sunday. It was a wonderful moment to be standing in the crowd of tourists and locals waiting for a church to open its doors. I don't think I will ever experience anything like that again. Everyone stood so close, you could smell their Parisian perfume (not always a pleasant smell). Add to that the sound of American teenagers on vacation with their parents and school groups. Whose idea was it to bring them there? In any case, this was the first and hopefully last time I will ever be pushed into a cathedral again.

The mass itself was supposedly the international service, but only the ending part was multilingual. I felt sorry that the priest had to speak English because he clearly didn't want to try it at all. He almost forgot what he was supposed to be repeating at one point! But who wouldn't? We Americans seem to make life more awkward for everyone in the world because they can't speak our language but they sure do try. I was just excited to be there, in such a historical place. How many centuries of people have come there to worship, and we are just sitting there waiting for mass to be done so we can take pictures.

Miscellaneous
And then there are those things you least expect... A man urinating on a flowerbed on Boulevard Montparnasse. Wearing hospital booties to visit a private home for architecture class. Seeing one of your friends standing on the quai of the metro as you ride past. Sunshine after a rainstorm. The Eiffel Tower in your direct line of vision.

So maybe Paris is greatest when you don't have any standards for it at all. Just like any big city, the beauty lies in the most random moments.

Wednesday, April 4, 2012

Things That Deserve Reflection

March has passed me by without much ceremony, but I guess the days always go by much faster here. It seems like just yesterday I was writing a frantic but excited post on my new host family and on my new home here in Paris. Now, any time I picture leaving here, I can't help but acknowledge the part of me that wants to stay forever. I don't think that I was expecting that after all I've gone through. Culture shock has a funny way of surprising you when you least desire it.

There are a few things that I think need more reflection here. If you are ever planning on traveling to Paris, this might help you. But most likely you will find that Paris is what you make of it.

1. The Cinema
French people have an entirely different view of the movies than we do. I guess it comes from their long history of artistic movements that it's only natural for them to treat going to the movies like going to an art gallery. I found out the hard way that they don't tolerate getting into the movie - as in commenting on how super excited you are that the movie is good. In my defense, the film was American and a super big deal. (Perhaps you have heard about The Hunger Games? If you haven't, you probably should check it out.) But another interesting fact is that they don't really discriminate against genres like we do. I just saw a second film at the cinema, an American action/comedy, and several of the audience members were elderly people. I would normally just chalk it up to the fact that it was the middle of the afternoon on a Tuesday, but there's something to this. In the US, you probably wouldn't find a 75 year old woman coming to the theater by herself to watch a movie in a foreign language that you knew was going to be about young people in love. It's just a thought, but the French of any generation are more willing to view a film as something worthwhile even if it is a comedy. Maybe we could learn something about their appreciation.

2. Architecture
I really wish that we had more historical heritage. Where I am from, most of the architecture is so new, you couldn't care less who built the building or when; you just care what you can do inside it. In Paris, there is such a rich architectural heritage. It's not just the Eiffel Tower that I'm talking about, either. Sometimes I think we are so naive in thinking that the Eiffel Tower is the most beautiful monument in the world. If you ask me, the area around the Eiffel Tower is what makes it significant - and the view from the top, which I am hoping to see very soon!! There are so many beautiful sites around every corner, so many stories about people and societies long past. If we had the same in America, I'd say it's something like going to Colonial Williamsburg but a lot older. And even the buildings that date from the nineteenth century are amazing. Like the Opera Garnier, for example. 'Nuff said.

3. Legend
I don't really know what makes Paris such a symbol of romance, but sometimes, I find it no different than other big cities. What makes the city special to me, though, is the French people. I don't know any other culture that is more proud of their heritage and their language. It is nearly 3 centuries after France's glory days during the Classical era, yet people still have this fancy impression of Paris and of France - including the French. They are proud to be the birthplace of the Rights of Man, of Republican spirit, of wine and good food. Not only that, but they'd tell you any day that America can't hold a candle to them. I have to confess that it's this kind of cultural pride that makes me love the French! We Americans think that to be patriotic we have to agree with the government, wear red, white, and blue all the time, and (some people think this, Yankees!) listen to country music. In France, your cultural pride is linked directly to the language. I wonder what it would be like if we anglophones had to learn other languages to get a job. I think we'd benefit from that kind of cultural challenge.

I'm sure there will be more reflections coming, but these were the most pressing today.

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Bruges

Belgium is a lovely place to be, but sometimes you really need to speak the language to feel at home. During my recent stay in Bruges, Belgium, I discovered that even though everyone spoke English (and French) the main language of service is Flemish. For those who don't know, the language of northern Belgium sounds like a fusion of German and English and is impossible to sound out. As an example, the Market Square is known as Markt and most every street's name ends in "straat."

Other than the language, I think that Belgians are happy people. They see a lot of tourists in Bruges even though the city is a fraction of Paris. It only takes 20 minutes to walk from one end of the city to the other if you're really looking to get a fast walk in. More than that, all the tourist places are pretty close together. It makes for an ideal vacation spot if ever you want to visit Belgium but Brussels is too big. Although, I hear the city of Ghent is wonderful for those looking to find young people, due to the abundance of universities.

Bruges was founded in the year 1277 with the arrival of the first traders from Genova. In 1309, the Stock Exchange opened - a very long time before modern capitalism and yet so similar to the way we do things now. Bruges itself was based on its trade routes via its canals. Even in the medieval era, the town was build on the banks of the water. You can see how integral the water was to the foundation of the city, though a lot of the former sites of canals are covered with streets.

The main attraction of the town is due to the film In Bruges, which stars Colin Farrell. I've never seen it, but apparently it's good! It won critical acclaim for its screenplay, so it must have some merit. Despite its bleak outlook on the city, the film attracts more tourists to the small town than perhaps it should. Personally, I think more people should visit it just for the fun of going to a small town that still acts like a small town despite the tourists. Even if you aren't in the market for a romantic canal ride or a pint of beer, Bruges is a lovely place to spend the weekend. I am so glad I did!





Thursday, March 29, 2012

Normandy, My Love

I have to confess that after visiting the Loire Valley, I didn't think there would be a region to live up to my standards of French regions. But I was wrong. The first view of Normandy we took on our latest excursion had me hooked: fishing boats, the Seine, and cute architecture. Pardon my pun.

The town is called Honfleur, and if you have never heard of it, you should look it up. Many of the great French painters, predecessors of the Impressionists, painted and lived in this charming city. Between the history of the oldest wooden church, L'Eglise Sainte Catherine, and the atmosphere of a water-front town, all of your needs can be met in this one place. Not to mention the fact that I found a milkshake there. No joke, it's the first one I've seen this whole time that wasn't suspicious. Next to Honfleur on your list of destinations should be Deauville, and geographically, they are practically neighbors. This lovely ocean-front town is also the site of an important American film festival, as you can see by the beach side changing stalls dedicated to Hollywood stars.

Our home base was Caen, a very typical destination for anyone visiting Normandy. You will find university students and everyday folks just as often as you will find tourists, but the city is worth your time. Though we didn't go for a tour, we walked by William the Conqueror's castle. We visited l'Abbaye aux hommes, home to a wonderful Romanesque/Gothic fusion church. William's ancient remains are interred inside, so if you care about old Norman history, you should stop by. Apparently, they had trouble getting him to go into his grave, so the remains, I'm sure, would testify to that if you could still even find his crumbs.

Anyway, the important site of Normandy happens to be one of the most visited tourist sites in France: Mont St Michel. Not far from Caen, this island is a witness to centuries of history, from William the Conqueror trying to lay siege to the World Wars. What makes this jewel so special is its beautiful views. You hardly make it to the top of the steps (there are a lot) before the view takes away your breath. On top, you will find a church and abbey, still in session for those who want to make pilgrimage there. I found the gardens to be the most enchanting spot.

As a conclusion, we visited the Memorial in Caen, which consists of a very thorough museum on the history of World War II in France. There is also a separate exhibit about D-Day, or Jour J as the French call it, and the landings on Normandy's shore. Unfortunately, our subsequent visit to the shores themselves was overshadowed with fog. Under better conditions, you can see what remains of the British, American, and Canadian landings. We did, however, get to explore a few bunkers, one complete with a tank!

If any of you is wondering, we did visit the American memorial at St Laurent. It was just as moving as I imagined, and the only thing missing was patriotic music. It's funny how nothing seems to patriotic to me now that I've been away from the U.S. for so long. I don't always miss it, but there is nothing like America - even with our problems and vices. I'm actually thankful to be American... but if any French person asks, I'm not really American. I just play one on TV.